Tuesday, July 25, 2006

Let's eat: BLD, Pazzo Gelato

When Biffles is not at the bijou, spinning around the pole, reading, or watching even more reruns of crime shows she has already seen way too many times, she often finds it necessary to eat: dining or chowing down, Biffles loves to nibble.

BLD Last Friday lunch, I (to shift pronouns from the third-person-interminable) tried BLD, the new restaurant (in the Red/Opaline/Cafe Capo space on Beverly) from Neal Fraser and the other owners of Grace.

The space is now wide open--the small side bar now serving as a sparsely stocked retail area--and clean, the only decor a bonsai in a recessed spot on the wall. On a summer Friday, there was no need for a lunch reservation (everybody left town to escape the heat except me) and I was seated before Chantalle, the other member of my lunch team that day, arrived.

BLD means "breakfast, lunch dinner" (although I keep confusing it, in my heat-fried brain, with BLT in NYC, which means "Bistro Laurent Tourendel," who has not yet made a foray into LA). There's one menu for B and L; hearty breakfasty eggy items with hearty meats, all organic and with stellar pedigrees. Various breadstuffs, including chive biscuits (amen!). The lunch menu is sandwiches, burgers, salads, a pasta, and a few more entreelike items.

Prices are not modest. My Wagyu burger was $16. The waitress, charming and helpful as she was, seemed to have difficulty understanding that I wanted the burger and its trimmings, but no bun around the burger. I make the tradeoff so I can have the fries, and boy, was I glad--they're matchstick fries (or pommes allumettes) and were terrific. The beef itself was very flavorful. Chantalle went for the hangar steak salad, at $18, and she cleared her plate happily.

The choices of wine by the glass were not extensive, but decent; the list wasn't overpriced, either. We eschewed dessert but the menu looked good, including several cookie selections.

Verdict: Will return, maybe not very soon but sometime for breakfast.

Pazzo Gelato I could start this by saying , pazzo means "crazy" in Italian, and this is some crazy gelato! But I will forebear. (oops!). At Sunset and Hyperion in Silverlake (parking lot behind the building) Pazzo scoops their own homemade gelato. No ice cream, no sorbet -- just gelato. My two-scoop combo included limoncello (nicely tart on a--surprise!--hot day) and rose. The flavors are various and range from chocolate to fig and even red plum (although it was listed on the board, the scooper couldn't find it). Well-meaning staff....hey, it was a hot hot day and the a/c in Pazzo wasn't doing such a great job.

Verdict: Hey, are they still open? (until 11 Tues through Sat, 8 on Sunday, closed Monday)

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